Slightly off topic, but fucking inspiring none the less…
one day I’ll be able to make shoes AND release my stoner rock albums on vinyl in the one object! haha…
Slightly off topic, but fucking inspiring none the less…
one day I’ll be able to make shoes AND release my stoner rock albums on vinyl in the one object! haha…
Hey peeps, I took some screengrabs of the TV show footage and made up a mini gallery for any of you who didn’t get to see the show live to air. I have heard that it’s available on the internets through less-legal modes of acquirement, but I’m not silly enough to provide links to that on this here official website.
Ok, after a MASSIVE few months here at D&B I have finally put aside some time to get back to what we all love around here… long winded posts about shoe making!
I’ll start with the big news in case anyone missed it – I made the shoes for Christina Exie’s collection as a finalist in Project Runway Australia and last night she was declared the winner! (I’ll stop with the exclamation marks now as they’ll get tiresome) … she wins a buttload of stuff, cash, a car, fabric and also the oppurtunity to show a collection at Sydney Fashion Week early next year, so providing she is still in Australia and not whisked away to international stardom you should all keep an eye out for that.
So, as promised to a few people, here’s the lowdown on how / what Dani and I did during October when we kind of dropped completely off the radar for all friends and family. This will be a long one, so get comfy.
We met Christina in our studio earlier this year when she was looking for studio space, she is friends and has exhibited with Katia who has a spot in our room. None of the spaces we had available were the right size for what she wanted to do – which turns out was to create a collection of some sorts in the hope that she would get to exhibit it after Project Runway was over… as she was eliminated towards the end and only brought back in at the last moment as a wildcard entry.We kept in touch as she seemed to have a great eye for style (and she liked my scary black shoes) so we tossed around the idea of working together in the future…
… and then at the start of November she emailed me to ask if I was interested in making her some shoes to go with her collection, even though it was the end of the year. Thus began stage one.
We discussed ideas, she wanted elastic sided boots, and this was the closest design I had to what she wanted. Luckily, being a designer herself she appreciated that I had ideas of my own and she wasn’t asking me to just make a knock off of something she saw in a shop.
This is the old prototype that we looked at and decided to work from…
So I sewed up a quick black version, glued on a heel and then started with my Photoshop skillllzzz…
et voila! As requested, a “virtual” black boot, 40mm platform, 5 inch (125mm) heel for maximum runway model awesomeness, the inclusion of a nickel buckle as per her collection and a few ideas of how we could include the red and beige that featured in her clothes. I added in the chrome front piece as it seemed to need something to break up the big fat front section.
After we had agreed on a style, she had received word that she should be putting together a collection ‘just in case’ she was needed back on the show, and that’s when things got serious.
I got cracking on production of 10 PAIRS OF SHOES that were due in 3 to 4 weeks. Ouch. Oh, and we didn’t know what sizes to make them as she wasn’t at the stage of choosing models. Grrreeeat.
I made some calls and my best fashion pal Keita at Pronto Productions (who produced the runway shows for MSFW this year) let me know that most Melbourne models are an 8 or 9, so we made the executive decision to just make 8, 8.5 and 9s and hope that the models had squishable toes or thick socks……
stage one… make up a test pair. 12 October.
Realise your pattern is wrong, remake.
Repeat 5 times or more.
Vow to be more careful when designing patterns and less adventurous.
Ignore that and continue to make shoes that “look good” no matter how hard they are to sew together.
Good ol’ leather detail photos (its been a while!)
realising that zips, suede, full grain leather and linings are hard to join all in one place…
but we got there… hellllooooo black boot #1.
A quick mockup to send photos to Christina. Happy comments received, everyone is happy.
Little did i know what was in store for me over the next 3 weeks….
After getting to this stage, and making ANOTHER test pair to further resolve the pattern I had an inkling that sewing all of these myself was a bit of a recipe for disaster. I sew ok, but I’m slllloowwww, whereas Emma Greenwood is a sewing guru and loves a good challenge, so I proposed she sew them for me at a nice and rewarding hourly rate whilst I got to work on other things.
… stuff like this was doing my head in. Straps meeting zips, things turning inside out. Its a mind bender.
the chosen 3 sizes all taped up for making a full set of patterns. If i was passing the sewing on to Emma I had to do a good, clear job of all patterns, none of my usual “front bit” naming conventions and “this bit longer than the other side” random notes.
… being much smarter than me, Emma also dropped a casual “will you be cutting the leather out?” and I was all “yeah, no worries, I’ll do it tonight…”
…4 hours later I was done. Thats half a day cutting things. Jeezus.
As you can see I had to go for maximum hide yield rather than the preferred symmetry and ‘only the nice bits’ rule, hence some of these shoes being a bit old-person-wrinkly in parts.
all sewn up and delivered…
…and 3 test “first pullovers”. Happy days.
Look at that sewing! Fuck, she is good. 20 uppers sewn in one day, neat as a pin. Worth every dollar.
The uppers start to pile up. Each one of these shoes took a few hours to last, and then there was the matter of me only having ONE SET OF LASTS, so I could only make 3 pairs at a time, then I had to pull them off the lasts and start again.
… another lifesaver from Emma was the introduction of heat set toepuffs. Being a hack with no formal experience or training I just make things up and didnt really know how to get or use this stuff. She showed me how, it works perfectly and takes 30 seconds. Amazing.
Alas, by this stage my 3D printer had not yet arrived, so I had to make my platforms the old skool way.
Lots of measurements, MDF, cork and PVA = two master forms to make resin from.
Those compound curves are a BITCH to get to work, but it worked out in the end.
I love PVA. It’s so handy. Filling up gaps here…
so with a whole night’s work silicone moulding this is what I got.
… and once that pink thing is filled with Polyurethane, you get production ready bits!
Dani snuck a sneaky shot of me scowling at a shoe. All of the other photos I’m scowling even more and look like a right grumpy bastard, so this one will do.
Thanks to my wifey’s connections we got a stamp made up at the last minute of my logo.
Have I shown this off before? Dunno, if not, there it is. Courtesy of NICK LEWIS.
oh, and I have a website sort of up now too > http://www.stevenphillips.com.au/
Here’s my #1 girl working away at some stupid hour. By this stage I was a tired panicked mess, Dani stayed to help me through another 12 hour day.
… she wrapped platforms and got hiiiiiigh on glue.
heels starting to stack up on the shelf…
DIY cast resin taps for the bottom of the heels. This resulted in Dani getting a 2 week rash on her arms.
She is allergic to resin fumes. ooooops.
Stamped stuff… looking legit.
Hardcore resin supplies. Audrey and I lament ever getting in to resin casting.
We spend $200 a time at Barnes (casting supplies) and $300 a time at Leffler (leather) like it’s no big thing.
We have discussed opening a shop called “Leather ‘n Resin”.. it would indeed be lucrative, but mostly because the name rolls off the tongue so easily.
Outsoles pre-cut. I used Topy to make them as non-slip as possible. Leather is nice, but a bit scary when you’re walking down a gloss white runway on 5″ heels.
So many shoes.
Here’s a quick shot I took at midnight the day before the deadline day….
Finished models on the bench.
More to go yet… cork inserts for comfort.
Production line, the day of the deadline…
So ONE NIGHT before the deadline (by then she knew she was back in the final 4) I was madly glueing and stamping the final shoes and had entered a total state of tired / wired delerium. I dropped them off at her house, she was just as tired and spaced out as me and we crossed our fingers that her clothes and my shoes would look good together… and nothing would break.
so at 9pm, the night before the show, here we are…. 20 pairs all ready to go.
I wanted to take more photos but honestly I was texting Christina at 10 min intervals with “almost, gimme a minute” then “yep, heading out the door” then “yep, ACTUALLY heading out the door now”…
Dani and I got to go to the filming of the Runway show which was pretty fun, but we were so tired and nervous that neither of us got to pay too much attention to the clothes, our eyes were on the shoes thinking “shoes please dont break, dont fall over girls” over and over again. The show was a success, and as we know now SHE WON THE DAMN SHOW.
Stupidly Dani and I went to the wrong venue and missed the after party (derrrrrrrrr) but all is well that ends well, and this has ended as well as it possibly could have.
So what’s next you ask? SLEEEEEP and LOTS OF IT.
Our pop up shop is still open, we’re selling stuff right up until xmas eve, so come on in and buy cool stuff.
It will make me happy.
January plans you ask?
Making lots of stuff with my new 3D printing NerdStation…
Crazy stuff like this 6″ heel. Fuck yes, that is cool.
and finally doing some more work on this bucket of bolts, that is now registered.
Plans are to lower it so it scrapes on the road, paint it matte charcoal grey instead of green and get some whitewall tyres…
kind of like this, cool huh?
oh, and get ready for Black Sabbath concert that I have tickets for. Yesssssssssss.
So, that completes another blog entry showing that I am a confusing mix of heavy metal bogan /redneck, and sexy shoe aficionado.
Keeps things interesting I guess….
Until next time – MERRY CHRISTMAS! THANKS FOR READING! COME TO OUR SHOP!!!
It seems that in amongst all the shop opening admin we’ve been up to lately I forgot to update this here website with some pretty important information… Our pop up shop is open again!!
We had a mini launch party a week or so ago and now we’re open every Wednesday – Saturday 11am – 6pm from now until Christmas. As with last year’s store we have LOADS of under-$100 goodies for christmas gifts, as well as a bunch of more high-end fashion things for you to buy for yourself.
The pop up site is here > www.quickanddead.com < and it has a link to our online store, shop from home!
Thanks to everyone who has helped out so far, it’s been a great start and we’re only 2 weeks in.
Hey gang, we’re participating in the first annual Flinders Lane Shopping Night this THURSDAY, November 22.
Come up to see us for a beer if there are any left, 10% off all stock in store and a last chance to have a look before we revamp the space for our Christmas Pop Up shop!
Here’s the official info from the press release. Special thanks goes to Dana Lenko for organising it all!
Home to our most beloved independent retailers, designers and creative minds—it is where the lifeblood of Australian fashion and the forefront of independent design pools.
To celebrate this unique, creative community, retailers have united for the very first time to create an exciting new event—the Flinders Lane Shopping Night, to be held on Thursday November 22, 2012 from 5pm to 9pm.On this day local retailers will be staying open for a late night shopping experience with each store running their own exclusive offers.
A month? Already? In fact a month + a week? God damn, sorry followers!
October has been STUPID busy for Dani and I, so we have neglected our blog, our plants and our friends all in the quest for the big dream. What’s been going on you say?
- Dani has been making goodlyGOLD items in bulk with her new assistant/pal Alicia and there are a bunch of new stockists coming soon.
- She has produced a limited edition range of jewellery exclusively for LIFEwithBIRD which is pretty exciting as she loves their clothing.
- There have also been a bunch of fuck-ups with her suppliers sending the wrong thing, plating necklaces in the wrong stuff… that sort of thing… the stuff that makes everything just a little bit more painful than it needs to be.
- I have taken on the challenge of making 10 PAIRS of crazy high heels for a high profile runway show that is coming in 2 weeks. I’m not allowed to say any more than that, but when it’s done and shown dont you worry, I’ll be talking about it as much as possible.
- This has also involved me getting the most awesome Emma Greenwood on board to sew the 20 uppers I need. The decision was made that my nerves are a bit shaky and my stress levels a bit high for me to pull of 2 days of sewing and expect good results. Emma knocked them up in an afternoon and they’re perfect. She rulez.
- I am now knee deep in resin molds, leather uppers and nails trying to get them all made. Looks achievable, so lets keep our fingers crossed.
* if you want to see update pics of the shoe stuff as I do it, follow us on Instagram DEADANDBURIED – that would also explain the crap photos this month, no time for good cameras.
or just spy on us here if you (understandably) don’t use instagram > http://web.stagram.com/n/deadandburied/
- I am also working 3 days a week AND doing extra 3d stuff at night to pay for…..
….wait for it…..
MY NEW 3D PRINTER THAT I HAVE BOUGHT THAT ARRIVES NEXT WEEK!!!!
A top of the line Replicator2 is coming my way (as seen on the cover of Wired magazine this month) which will mean I can finally print out crrrrraaazzzzyyyyy 3d parts and get my ideas realised. I have had to sell some musical gear but hell, who cares when you have a black bad assed printer on the desk?
This is part of a bigger push to restructure my shoe brand idea from ‘hobby’ to a Jimmy Choo level business, so 2013 is shaping up to be fucking busy.
Oh, and extra thanks goes to my dad who, as you do, just finished the restoration of my vw and got it registered for me last week (mainly so I get it the hell out of his driveway). So, when I get a free hour one day I’ll go pick it up and be crusing the streets in this rocket.
Apologies to anyone we’ve forgotten to call back / have dinner with / answer your emails. We’re busy, it sucks, but it’s what it takes to make it alllll happen.
We are having another Quick and the Dead pop up shop too this year, so keep an eye out for info on that in the next week or so. If you make things and want to sell stuff that is in the gift-buying price bracket ($50 – $100) then get in touch with us!
ps. if you’re reading this Madeline, that’s why I haven’t been in touch again, oops, I’ll email you soon!
Ah, the irony…. “Lazy Sunday Afternoon” by the Small Faces playing on the iPod RIGHT NOW, and what are we doing? Anything but being lazy.
Today Dani and I set up and shot all of the products currently in our store for the imminent launch of our online store! That’s right, if you’re :
You can soon purchase whatever we have up for sale from the comfort of your home (or your iPad whilst stuck in traffic). The wonders of modern life.
It took a good 4 hours, but we have come to terms with the fact that it’s just how we are. We COULD work more hours somewhere else and then pay a photographer, or we could zip to the art store, buy some stuff and get shooting. So keep a lookout for some website changes (again) and a new click-n-buy store in the coming weeks.
Oh, and if you like photos of things, follow us on Instagram @deadandburied! Then you’ll get the inside scoop on everything we do.
Listening to : the drama students in the studio next door primal yelling at full volume. It’s pretty funny.
Hey gang, I just wanted to post some photos up here of Audrey’s work before I forget to do so…
As you may remember, she has been dropping by the studio every now and then for advice and encouragement as she works on her final year collection at RMIT Fashion. She previously was interning with Roberts & Hassett, but the guys there noted that she was probably a bit too “avante garde” in her ideas to be learning from their hand-sewn ultra-traditional ways.
James introduced us, and I have been giving her tips on resin casting, machining, power tool safety… all the old man / dad sort of things that come out in me when someone asks for help.
She has been a bit of a powerhouse of productivity thought, as she just exhibited her own preview collection of shoes, made shoes for another student’s exhibition AND worked on shoes for a runway outfit. Thumbs up to that.
These first lot are her own shoes, exhibited under the Luxe: “Live” moniker, if you go over to her site > http://cargocollective.com/audreythomashayes < you can read the explanation of the name and ideas.
rather than paint the buckles, I encouraged her to make a silicone mould and cast her own… too easy.
These started as “sneakers” and gradually morphed over many design changes into fur lined boots with clear heels…
… which have mini diamond shapes in them to hide any obvious means of attaching them.
Diamonds on the soles of your feet anyone?
Oh… and why not throw some GLOW IN THE DARK powder in when casting resin parts? Awesome.
On display as part of MSFW with live modelling.
Under UV light…
… which makes elastic glow like crazy.
She also put these together for Bernadette Francis, they’re part of a collection that is inspired by sound, and these shoes will have a Theremin integrated into the sole / pant leg so that you buzz and whirrrr as you walk around.
The boot is part of the pant, which is part of the jumpsuit… hence the entire outfit in a bag.
unpicked and re-sewn rand.
as-much-glitter-as-possible resin heels.
… I will also add a shout out to Katia from our studio who made the jewellery+ some ornamentation for Bern’s show
Bits like this…
…sewn on on to this dress, and attached to headpieces. Beautiful work.
So, that’s the sort of thing that has been coming out of our studio lately. Dani and I are very happy to see that we’re helping Melbourne fashion be a bit more awesome. So much more to come over the next year!
*image above from Meagan Harding Photography
Well it’s Friday again, another week gone, but for once I have new work to show rather than just excuses and moaning about time wasting.
I will pop up a post next week about Audrey’s shoes and exhibition that I gave her some help with here and there, but if you’re interested here the link to the website : http://luxelive.tumblr.com/
The shoes she produced are great, and they made me realise I need to making more stuff instead of just talking about it and assisting others.
So on that note, here’s this week’s story…..
Tuesday : Get complimentary tickets to the RMIT fashion show at MSFW. Woo.
Wednesday : Have a lacklustre day, Dani and I both were tired, mid-week slump. Not much work done. We leave the studio to walk home (we live close enough to walk home now! yesssss) and Dani notes that she has nothing “fashionable” to wear the the runway show, and we have no money for new clothes. I drop the old “well, I could make you new shoes tomorrow?”
Thursday : Arrive at 10am and IMMEDIATELY get to work on making a complete pair of heels for Dani to wear THAT NIGHT TO A FASHION EVENT. Seems I only work when there is an impossible deadline.
Here are the pics, with time stamps so you can see how intense yesterday was.
10.12am – Insoles prepared (not using my resin ones, no time to cast new parts today)
10.19am – Breaking out a new pack of suede…
10.20am – taking photos of leather for no reason.
10.34am – measurements and patterns from prototype shoe
12.50pm – 2 hours have passed… patterns cut, edges skived and rolled, insoles semi-wrapped
1.10pm – Top of the list of “things I didnt think i’d be doing at 32 years old” = hand beading sequins on to shoe pieces.
1.49pm – Uppers assembled, sequins attached
3pm – sewing almost done + lining attached. One hour lost due to having to pull apart older prototype shoes for heels to recycle.
4.13pm – Lasting begins. Panic starts.
4.14 – Questioning why I am taking photos at this point when I have deadlines to meet.
4.20pm – Nick Lewis comes to visit. I pretty much ignore him. I apologise for that Nick.
5.41pm – lasted, heels and platforms attached. Gold details added
5.51 – heels screwed on, fingers crossed they hold.
6.10pm – First try on. Good fit, panic has subsided.
6.11 – Dani swans around. I take photos.
6.19pm – Proof. 10 minutes to be at MSFW for runway show.
6.45pm – Show time!!
… so that was exhausting, but a nice way to convince myself that this is all possible.
Today we’re off to look at some static MSFW exhibitions, then to see a film about Lanvin. Nice.
Hi all, it’s the start of Melbourne Spring Fashion Week so I have swapped my work shifts around to be in and around the city for the week – hopefully we’ll get to catch a bunch of shows and exhibitions and films and generally be re-immersed in fashion after a long winter of shop reno’s and hard work.
I’ll be FINALLY adding some new content to the blog too, starting with some shots and info on the Shoe Gallery at the Melbourne Shoe Fair that I was asked to curate. This probably should be on my Steven Phillips site, but that doesn’t exist yet, so you Dead & Buried peeps can have a look instead
I was commissioned by Pronto Productions to curate an exhibition of shoe related photography – but of course I had to overdo it, and instead of just sourcing existing images I decided to get my old pal Albert Comper on the job and had him shoot a bunch of original content which is indicative of what my label’s branding approach will be.
We shot a selection of atmospheric studio shots in the Dead & Buried workshop, Brendan Dwyer’s amazing studio and the always-photogenic Captains of Industry / Roberts & Hassett.
Then we arranged a studio shoot which featured the shoes of Brendan Dwyer, Emma Greenwood, Phong Chi Lai and some AMAZING commercial fashion brand shoes sourced by styist Julia-Louise Premoselli with a day’s notice. She came through with the goods and dropped off shoes from Finsk, Aperlai, Givenchy and Milu to round of the handmade vs. production theme we were going for.
Albert of course killed it when it came to the photos, if ever I had a work ethic and visual style doppleganger it’s him, with a few mumbles and agreeing head nods we got the job done. Too damn easy.
Pronto arranged the printing and install of the actual exhibition so apart from one last-minute late night retouching the images (getting rid of dust and fingerprints etc) it was all pretty simple.
The Shoe Fair has since been and gone, but I hope to add to this collection of images in the coming months and eventually compile them into a book or online exhibition, or something like that.
So thanks for reading, and check back later this week for a virtual tour of our NEW SHOP and expect a bunch of updates to this site over the coming weeks as we upgrade to an online store and all round fashion and craft hub.
If you get a chance, be sure to head to the RMIT student exhibition at Thousand Pound Bend this week to see what the next generation of kids are coming up with (it’s really good.)
Listening to : The Presets today, a bit of doof to help me focus.