Virtual Shoemaking

Well, I’ve always insisted I wasn’t going to do it, but the time has come to give in to the lure of the 3D modelling virtual shoe world.

The only reason I was trying NOT to get too nerdy with this stuff was a fear that I’d spend 57 hours a week in my spare room on a computer, and somehow classify that as a craft. As a bit of justification for the jump back in to the digital realm (not that I need to justify anything, but I may as well) … a few conversations lately have lead to me decide that if I’m going to release a range of shoes that are worthy of a high price point and a super level of exclusivity – dictated by my personal involvement in their construction, and thus high labour costs – they may as well have all the bells and whistles I can possibly muster up.

So this week I am looking in to custom digitally printed fabrics to integrate with the leather uppers, and it was pretty obvious that ‘guessing’ what pattern goes where, and what scale / orientation / colour to use would be a never ending task if using actual fabric samples. I have modelled up my chosen last in 3D, knocked up some quick indicative geometry for the rest of the components and now I can get to work on laying out patterns and colour combos much faster than using the ol’ textas.

I will also be pushing the limits a bit with my heel and platform shapes, so having 3D digital models = direct rapid prototype prints = much better results than my hand carved ones.

Things can get pretty crazy in a short amount of time….

With that mini milestone under my belt I’m off in to the city to meet another new shoemaker in the making to see what she is planning on doing. Exciting.

Enjoy the sunshine today if you’re in Melbourne (and I assume the snow if you’re in the northern hemisphere) and Happy Valentines Day.

Rhino Time-o

(you know, sometimes I wish this website DIDN’T have a “title” box, so I’d feel less inclined to make a pun about pretty much every post I make. Sigh.)

Anyhoot, the future is (sort of) here! I’ve just modelled up my first object in Rhino 4.0, which means I’m one step closer to being able to make brain-meltingly complicated heels, platforms and fittings for my shoes! Combined with my 3D printer and some resin casting skillz, there will be no end to the craziness that I can hang under a nicely sewn and lasted upper. All those hours of nerding really do come in handy at times.

So, here’s a screengrab of a ring design Dani has been tinkering with that she is going to try getting 3D printed and cast in silver this week. Awesome.

This post will probably also interest our studio crew (we need to come up with a name for our gang that isn’t naff, something like the DBC, or DBK if we use Krew? I will have to raise it at the next AGM) as both Katia and Amber were recently discussing 3D printing as a path they would like to take, so look out for more studio R & D over the next few months, especially once I get the RepRap in the room.

For a more traditional spin on replicating, I also made my first Urethane castings of a FAT 5″ heel this week so that I can start making prototypes that all look the same!

Lots more to do in terms of stregth and weight saving (they’re heavyyyyy) but it was pretty exciting to start to see custom made components appear each hour with the magic of Chemistry.

What else is there to talk about? We’re working a mega business plan and budget in the hope of getting some grants or funding for Stage 2 of the plan this year… so much typing!

Oh, and we heard today that the super cool and funky pants’ed studio buddy we were holding our breath for is moving in in March! Wooooop! So we’ll have a full house, jeweller gals all over the place, robots and fashion mags stacked to the ceiling. It’ll be like a little slice of heaven (note to self – book Dave Dobbin for the opening party to perform Slice of Heaven)

After a bit of a lull this weekend just gone, I’m feeling inspired again… and god help up us when I get my new Volkswagen next weekend, I’ll be like a kid in a big rusty candy shop!

Listening to : Die Antwoord’s new one TEN$ION. Its fuckin’ awesome.

Oh, and on top of our regular Tumblr account > http://deadburied.tumblr.com/ < I have started another personal one, but I’ll reveal all when it’s filled with funny.

Things for sale

Hey people, just a quick post to see if any Aussie shoe makers, or soon-to-be a shoemaker optimistic people are looking for a sewing machine?

Dennis, whom I purchased most of my machinery from has some other items to sell before he leaves Australia for good.

He has a Pfaff post machine (493? Same as mine), a flatbed heavy duty machine, or maybe 2 flatbeds, and a massive collection of shoe trade catalogues and magazines that he has gathered over the years as design references.

If you are interested, let me know and I can ask how much $ he wants for them… Best you get in before he leaves next week!

Back at the bench

Hey all, just a quick image post to show what I managed on my first day back in the studio in ‘shoemaker’ mode.

Unfortunately this was only done in the last 2 hours of the day after spending the rest of it messing around with odd jobs that went nowhere… I also hit a hurdle when I found that a whole lot of yellow leather I was looking forward to using is just wayyyy too soft and tends to stretch and tear when I work with it. The annoyance took me a good hour to get over, but time is scarce, so it was on to other things.

After a suggestion from a seasoned high heel wearer that some of my designs were a bit high in the ‘throat’ – thus making the wearer’s legs look a little short if they’re not super tall – I had a go at modifying a previous design to see how well a variation on a theme would work. I also added a bit of gold piping (my first attempt at such an idea) and DAMN, it really adds a sexy evening-wear look to it. This will be investigated further asap.

So, a new shape, low in the front so when combined with a 1″ platform and a big arching heel it will make anyone look tall, long and lean. Nice. (The heel wont be white, that was just a raw one I had around)

Ooh, I also received my first email about an internship today! From the USA too, so hi Madeline if you’re reading this.. I’ve replied, we’ll see where it goes from here.

Listening to : Learn to speak French with Alexa, the Podcast….I’m learning to speak French, seems like a fun way to spend my train trips!

Back in the saddle for TwentyTwelve

Howdy blog readers, welcome back to Dead & Buried’s blog for another year of craft, design, construction and youtube links!

After a well earned rest Dani and I are back in action, working away on new projects, coughing up cash to our suppliers who sold things at the pop up shop, cashing cheques from our stockists (well, Dani is, not me) and shuffling desks around to accomodate our new studio crew. More on them soon, I’ll take some photos and introduce them to you when I get a chance.

This year will be the year where we go from “lets start a shop” to “oh my god, we’ve opened a shop” and hope you all stick around to see how we go, what we make and which hot celebrities are the first to get decked out in our wares.

There is a mega list to get through before I properly launch my shoe label, Dani has a stack of new ideas to work on ranging from uber-high-end Egyptian inspired jewellery to a new range of hand spun porcelain wares straight off of her pottery wheel, and together we’re going to produce some in-house label stuff for Dead & Buried, silk scarves, tote bags, that sort of thing. We are also hoping to get our first interns / helpers / students in this year so that we can have a few more sets of hands helping out and so that we can pass on all this knowledge we have, and all those expensive books we’ve bought over the years. We’ll put up some sort of official application thing when the time is right, so keep an eye out for that.

I have a whole backlog of craft / shoe stuff to post, but for now here’s a few images of the wedding shoes I made!!


that’s them, hand-dyed italian silk, mini pleats to match her bodice and ankle straps.
A bit vintage and a bit modern at the same time.

A quick flashback to the dye batches in progress (I dyed it all myself to get it jusssssst right)….


and then on the day it’s time to buckle up…
 
The happiest couple around


the photographers know where the real quality stuff is…

and two more shots that make the wedding look like if was in some sort of French film…

Click HERE for a big long collage of all the shots of the wedding if you like that sort of thing – it was pretty amazing in every aspect, thanks to Michelle and Wilde for having us there!
Image credits : http://whiteheightsmedia.com + http://www.michaeldavidgray.com


 

 

It’s been so long…

Hello Dead & Buried followers… it’s been a while since we spoke, and that is all my fault.

Our pop up shop has been a success so far, and we genuinely haven’t had time to blog about any of the crazy things that have gone on in the last month. I’ll stick to a summary of the events as per usual, as I’m sure anyone who REALLY wants to hear every detail will have either asked us in person, or will send us an email asking for the big rundown.

So, since the pre-opening night panic that I blogged about last :

- We cleaned the entire studio top to tail, as it resembled a 16 year old boy’s bedroom with clothes, food wrappers and magazines strewn all over the place (< first time i’ve ever typed “strewn”, now that’s two) with some super help from Jen and James.

- We hosted the biggest in-studio event since our post-wedding party in Carlow House – the pop up opening – and it was GREAT. I’d say 80+ people showed up, we sold lots of things, we gave away lots of beer, we showcased some wine from the great people at Port Phillip Estate Winery who gave us a discount on their Shiraz that was indeed too good to be giving away at an opening, we mingled, we high fived people, we eventually left and ate dinner at the Supper Inn.  A total success.

- Then we began trading, and Dani worked on hurriedly making new things to replace the huge amount of stuff she sold in Sydney.

- I manned the shop a few times, and it gave me a mini meltdown, Eftpos machine keeps failing on us. I get stressed.

- Our pal Rochelle manned the shop for a day while we attended the wedding of Michelle and Wilde (see shoe images below)

- Dani had a stall at the Harvest Textiles Market, sold pretty much all of her stock again… sheesh.

- We got a mention in a Michi Girl mailout and an article about us in Broadsheet (thanks Tilly!) and that resulted in a pretty busy day of people coming in for the ‘must have’ tea towel of the season. Nick’s “Let Them Fucking Drip Dry” classic.

… and now we’re in here on a relatively quiet day, doing admin, shuffling papers, and blog updating.

So, thanks for your support Melbourne, it has been wonderfully uplifting to see so many great handmade things wander out our door and know that they’ll be brightening someone’s christmas much more than a gift voucher would.

 

As a final teaser / treat, here are a few pics of the final design of the wedding shoes I made.

I will definitely do a full making-of post in a week or so, when I get all the photos off my iPhone and whatever other cameras I used in the madness of the last month.

The uppers are made from leather and Italian Silk, that I dyed and crushed to the teal-ish colour we decided on. It was hard work, and made them a whole lot harder to make, but it proved worth it in the end.

The design stemmed from the dress, it had a ‘vintage’ feel to it, 50s era, and had pleating around the bodice, but Michelle is a pretty modern gal, so I came up with something that felt modern in it’s silhouette, but vintage in it’s detailing.

Have a Merry Christmas, and we’ll be back in 2012 for the BEST DAMN YEAR EVER.

Steve + Dani

2012 range : Part 1

Hey peeps, as you may have noticed I’ve been blogging on the fly lately with the ol’ iPhone app, but the last few days have seen me amass a bunch of photos that were better suited to one long(er) post instead of just popping up on your RSS feed every 20 minutes = Mega-post below.

(Plus, i’m running out of witty play on words style post headings… this makes it easier.)

I’m now about 9 days in to my break-from-paid-work sabbatical, and I must say, it has been successful. We’re getting a bit strapped for cash, and I do miss the lads at SquintOpera (and my lunch dates with the Pronto Productions crew) but having repeated days in the studio has meant I can go over the top with my OCD methodical planning habits, and write SO MANY LISTS that nothing slips through the net. Lists with everything crossed off are like heaven to me.

To anyone who has already designed a range of something, this might be old news, but I’ll explain my process for any budding designers out there who want the inside scoop.

I started the process with an intensive brainstorming session, a ‘mind map’ I think its called?
Whatever it is, it’s a bunch of words and drawings of “stuff I like”… with no limits placed on it, just pure ideas it resulted in things like “fog and trees”, “ink spills and colour bleeding”, “lomo photos”, “symmetry”.
This was added to a page of drawings of details from fashion that I’ve found I like (mostly McQueen), and things like black metal band logos, photos of Kate Moss, and lots of images from Tumblr that I printed out.


DESIGN DESK, DAY #2

Together they combined to make my official inspiration board for this range, or possibly all ranges from now on, who knows. I then combined these ideas into themes – like “car related”, “fabric manipulation” and “colour, paint, ink” etc.

That narrowed it down to 16 or so “themes” that I set out to draw actual shoes for…


DESIGN DESK, DAY #4 MAYBE?

… I referred back to a collection of favourite shapes, silhouettes and details from my previous sketching sessions quite regularly, and pretty soon a ‘look’ was developing.
This is where I hit a quandary, do I try to design all “new” shapes, or develop a signature design language?

I decided to stick to what I felt was right and go for signature shapes rather than a confused collection of greatest hits. I’m thinking this will make it easier for customers to understand my “style” rather than have them assume I make anything and everything… which will also help avoid the “can you make me a so-and-so” situations that I want to skip as quickly as possible. Seems I’ve chosen to be a shoe DESIGNER who happens to make shoes, not a shoe MAKER who does bespoke miscellany. Perhaps I’ll take over the shoe world next year, and get them all made in Italy – and you’ll be all “you know, he said he might do that”.

A few days (and lots of stencilled drawings) later I locked down a set of designs that will be my first offering to the world! I was happy, and showed them off to Dani, who nodded appreciatively.

…then I started colouring them in, and fuck, that killed me. There are SO MANY possibilities with colour alone, let alone colour + hardware + heel shape + heel height etc.
I decided to stop colouring and leave that for now.


DESIGN DESK + LEATHER SELECTIONS FOR IDEAS

Seems I sort of know now what I’ll be making for each one, but the reality of me making 3 or 4 colourways of each design in all  8 or 9 sizes that a ‘full size run’ requires will mean me making, hmm, 100+ pairs of shoes? hahahahah. yeahhh, um. no. So, for now I’ll make one colour of each, and see how I go with that.

Thus begins stage 2 (or whatever number we’re up to) of the design process -Pattern making and Prototyping!

This is a part I can show more images in, as it seems a little risky putting pages of sketches up on the innnernet, who knows who’ll use them and what for.

So, without further ado, here’s the rundown of the two (single) prototypes I’ve made over the last 48 hours.
These are studies for style / shape and proportion, once I’ve balanced out the heels and straps etc, I’ll make some wearable ones for Dani or Pennie to clomp around the studio in for comfort and wearability tests.


THE LAST I HAVE CHOSEN TO USE.
GRABLE? WHAT SORT OF NAME IS THAT? THEY HAVE A 90MM HEEL (4″).


TAPING UP THE LAST FOR PATTERNS


MULTI-TASKING. 3 PATTERNS ON ONE TAPE LAYER.


… THEN YOU SPLIT THE TAPE PATTERN DOWN THE MIDDLE AND PEEEEEL IT OFF.


AND WHACK IT DOWN ON SOME CARDBOARD.


WITH A BIT OF FANCY/TRICKY PINHOLE TRANSFERRING MOVES I HAVE 3 PATTERNS!


SO… NOW WE START MAKING TEST SHOE #1.
AT THE MOMENT I’M USING PRE-MADE INSOLES/MIDSOLES. I WANT TO MAKE MY OWN, BUT THEY TAKE SO LONG AND SO FAR HAVE ENDED UP BEING WEAKER AND WORSE THAN THE PRE-MADE ONES. I’M REALLY ONLY TRYING THESE AFTER GETTING A BAG OF THEM IN THE BULK BUY DEAL.


SKIVED AND TRIMMED EDGE (BAD PHOTO SORRY, PHONE IS A BIT SHIT, BUT ITS NEARBY)


WRAPPED AND LASTED SOLE. SO MUCH FASTER!


… SEEING AS MY DESIGNS ARE PRETTY ‘RUNWAY’ LOOKING, I NEED MASSIVE PLATFORMS…


FOR THIS PROTOTYPE I CARVED ONE OUT OF PINE ON THE DISC AND BELT SANDER.


A SLICED OFF FRONT… THIS PART WILL BE MADE FROM A DIFFERENT PLASTIC IN THE FINAL DESIGN.


BACK BIT, WHATEVER THAT IS CALLED. LOOKS LIKE GOLF CLUB NOW!
SO THATS AN EXTRA 30MM OR SO OF PLATFORM… WOOO.


SAME PROCESS WITH THE HEEL, BUT I FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH IT.


TEST ASSEMBLE FOR STRAP LENGTHS AND POSITIONING.


HARDWARE! BUCKLES, AND O-RINGS.


ALL JOINED UP BONDAGE STYLE…


UPPER ALL SEWN UP, I SKIPPED THE SEWING ON THE STRAPS AS I WAS SURE I’D BE ADJUSTING THEM ON THE GO…


LASTED, GLUED, TRIMMED AND HEEL AND PLATFORM ATTACHED.

PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS IS ABOUT 2 HOURS WORK, SO IT’S VEEEERRRRY ROUGH.
DONT GO THINKING I’LL BE MAKING SHITTY WORK LIKE THIS, THESE ARE JUST FOR TESTING!


5 INCHES BABY. YEP. SKY HIGH…
(THIS ONE IS A MEDIA RELEASE DESIGN, EXAGGERATED FOR MAXIMUM EFFECT, PRODUCTION ONES WILL BE A LITTLE LOWER)


BOTH BUCKLES WORK, AND ARE NEEDED TO STRAP YOU IN AT THOSE HEIGHTS.


FIRST TRY-ON! DANI MODELLING IT FOR ME.


DESIGN #2 ON THE WAY… I FORGOT TO PHOTOGRAPH THE INITIAL STAGES.


… BOTTOM BITS.


DESIGN #2 LASTED UP, SIMILAR TO MY OLDER YELLOW ONE, WITH SOME TWEAKS.


I AM GOING TO CAST MY OWN RESIN HEELS, SO THIS WAS A TEST OF RAW WHITE POLYESTER. LOOKS HOT.


DESIGNS #1 & #2 AS OF TONIGHT (THURSDAY)… 2 MORE TO MAKE TOMORROW!

Thanks for reading, hope that was a bit of fun for you all.
I have tomorrow to make another pair of prototypes, then we have a wedding on the weekend, so we’ll see how hung over I am on Sunday…

Listening to : James Iha – Let It Come Down
In case you didnt know about it, it’s the Smashing Pumpkins guitarists solo album, and its really, really good.

Back at the bench!

Ahhhh…. finally, some good ol’ hard labour at the shoe bench for the first time in over 2 months!!

Seeing as I’m a little overwhelmed by all the designs I have scattered around the house in piles of paper, I decided to start off on something a little more utlitarian to get my fingers and wrists back in the zone. With 4 weddings coming up in the next 3 months, Dani and I both need new shoes, and it would be a shame not to be sporting something handmade so that when people ask “what do you do?” and I say “shoemaker” and they look at my feet or Dani’s and see some crapola we bought 5 years ago.

So, first off the bench will be a pair of test fitters for me in burgundy suede. These were only going to be a practice pair of uppers, but I like the colour, and so am now lasting them up and planning to put in some bright coloured laces and be totally ‘on trend’ for this Spring – and also to suit the soon-to-be-cohesive palette I’m designing in which is pretty much “luxurious desaturated tones, with pops of neon / bright / fluro”

The wedding wearable shoes will be black suede, so they’ll be on the go next week… unless I decide the burgundy goes well with my blue suit, and then i’ll make another pair with less pen marks on them.


Pattern making… it’s been a while…


Part of the motherload haul from Dennis was this skiver.
It is perfect. It skived suede first time, like a dream. I almost wept…
so this pic goes out to you Emma, no more ratty edges, EVER.


uppers all stitched up…


lasted and shanked…


Ugly brown laces for now, soon to be replaced with something neon. nice.

There you have it, that’s the latest update from my desk… Dani is back working on lots of little things for a pre-christmas restock of all her stockists, and we have the first of our other studio pals Pennie Jagiello currently moving some odds and ends into her corner! One more desk to fill and we’re set to take on the world. If you want it, make yourself known before we give it to someone else and you miss the boat.

Oh, and tomorrow night is the first meeting with our grapho superstar friend Simon from Volume2A who will be showing us CONCEPTS FOR THE STORE BRANDING!!! Very exciting times.

New logo = signage = retail officialness … and new logo = new website design = no more DIY blog themes, soon we’ll have a spanking new look with an e-store attached and bio’s etc so you can learn all about the D+B gang.

So, we’re back, and you can settle in for what promises to be a summer FULL of us posting stuff we’re making, people we’re meeting, songs we like, and studio in-jokes galore.

Finally, check out our niece in her just-like-uncle-Steve checkered shirt. My heart is melting….
Sunday was supposed to be gardening day, but it turned into a babysitting afternoon of bubbles and dancing. Can’t complain about that really.

… I’m off now to check out all the coverage from NYFW and see what’s hot and what’s not.

Listening to : The Raspberries < another bit of 70s awesome… just discovered them today on the iPod.

Boot up

Howdy,

Another week of not much crafty stuff to show… I know, what’s the point of a craft blog with no craft?

Dani is nearing the firing stage of her bowls order (which is a mammoth achievement in itself, making 100 of something she normally makes one or two of is pretty bananas) so we’ll be dropping them off at Northcote Pottery this week to use their mega kilns instead of 12 separate firings in Dani’s little battler.


a still image from the video footage I’ve been shooting of the entire process…

I managed to get out to the shed yesterday for the first time in a fortnight and finished off a the test fit boot mentioned in a previous post. It’s always SUPER satisfying to hold a real shoe in your hand that looks about 90% the same as the drawing you started from, so although the completed shoes are a bit scarce these days it’s nice to know I’ve still got the knack.

There were some lessons learned from this one, on a technical level it was my first attempt at a zip, and the first skived edges in a long time (I was still a bit lazy on my skiving it seems as there is still some bulging around the seams where it should be dead flat)

and on a design level I am getting to appreciate how ‘unusual’ design features sometimes translate to less-than-ideal results. Namely the abrupt right angled detail in the topline of these = two flaps that dont know where to go… lesson learned, either reinforce them or attach them to something if I don’t want little “shirt collars” hanging in the breeze.


please ignore the heel, its raw laser cut MDF, no time for making a stacked leather one just for a fitting.

Thanks for stopping by… seems our visitor count is still climbing so that is always encouraging to keep typing and conversing with my ol’ pal WordPress dashboard and knowing it’s not just us two that are seeing this.

On that note, the countdown to the proper, real, official, actual launch of Dead + Buried (the workshop/retail store/online emporium) is now being measured in months, so we’re getting a little crazy here with lists, plans and dinner conversations but it IS VERY GOD DAMN EXCITING!

As Dani would point out though, I do, um, need, like, shoes to sell, not just ideas.
So here comes a few months of hard work and some hardcore shoemaking! Buckle up folks.

Listening to : Mastodon – Leviathan

TwentyEleven – Week Eight

Hey people, not going to be a lengthy post tonight as I’m a little tuckered out after a big weekend. I had a 2 day rock-fest jamming with my pals Nick and Nick (in no particular order) and developed a new even more unlistenably slow and heavy style of music than what we started with.

That said, I have some new stuff  on the bench and would hate to miss the chance to show off a little!

After my recent weaving adventures and some internet reading, I narrowed down my material requirements to some sort of “silk tweed” – and then managed to find an AMAZING piece of fabric on eBay finishing that night. Good timing? You bet it was.  48 hours later I got hold of a (larger than expected) piece of tweed made from recycled sari silk in the most ridiculous amount of colours. I have incorporated it into a new pair of prototypes and am now set on sourcing, or weaving my own, tighter and finer version of this fabric for my production models. This one is just a little too chunky and is hard to work with on a shoe pattern scale, it just needs to be woven much tighter.

TOP : Fabric + First sewn up pattern test
BOTTOM : Patterns cut + Sunday night’s effort at lasting. Missing buckles, platform and heel.

There are some good points (better technique) and some bad points (changed my design half way through, added straps and buckles, regretting it now that they are much harder to make) of these ones, but on the whole I’m happy with them. Will have soles and heels added this week, ready for Dani to wear them – finally a pair in her size! Drop in for a visit at Pieces of Eight later this month for a viewing.

Listening to :  Talking Heads – Little Creatures