March update…

Seems I / we don’t find the time to do much blogging these days – mainly because we dont have an internet connection at home – so here’s a dump of what’s going on. Ideally Dani or I will get an intern / assistant / PA this year and we can put them in charge of all this social media stuff……. not enough time!!

Rather than a big wordy story, lets cut straight to the pics :

Dani finished her collaborative project / art installation with Milly Flemming and got it all installed at the last minute at Craft Victoria for the Signature Style exhibition. We should get some profesh shots done, but for now here’s my iPhone snaps from the night.

  

Lots of porcelain, copper, enamel, silver and hard work.

3D printer has been working overtime – finally seeming like it’s worth all that $$.

I assisted Audrey make another collection of shoes, this time for Penthouse Mouse as part of LMFF. She arrived back in Melbourne from a 3 month holiday one week before the show started and explained to me her idea of ‘finding rocks that look like heels’…. of course I said ‘yeah, that’s going to take forever, why dont we just PRINT OUT A ROCK SHAPED HEEL’… and that’s what we did.

A quick briefing on what she wanted, an hour of her hovering whilst I nerded it up and 12 hours of print time (all settings on highest quality) = 2 rocks that work as heels.

She resin molded them and knocked up 3 pairs of shoes in 4 days.


Instagram photo of 2 pairs stolen from Bern. Soz Bern.

The other 3D projects that are on the go are accessories for Christina Exie’s debut runway show at Sydney Fashion Week in April.

Dani is making resin cast jewellery – for which I 3D modelled and scaled up an existing design of hers…

then she went on to tidy it up and prep it for casting

Audrey paid us back for all the assistance by being our resin casting intern for a few days…

sampling colours, getting things right…


and production begins!

I’m also making visors that have a lace / basketweave sort of design going on… but more on them when they’re actually done.


big ones, like this.

Oh, and you know what’s cool? When you need a replacement part or new filament holding spindle for your 3D printer and you can just PRINT IT OUT from files online… awesome.

… and lastly, not everything goes to plan, this is what happens when your object falls over 90% of the way through printing, so the extruder just keeps on pumping out plastic for 20 mins into the air. Kind of cool, kind of annoying.


… thats the object underneath there… booooo.

So much other stuff going on, Karlee has moved in to our old shop space and set up her tailoring business there (we might reopen in a ground level shop later this year) Amber and Katia both had work on show as part of LMFF, Elise got accepted in to RMIT honours, Yaz is having her work stocked at Craft Vic, I went to soundwave, I made a corporate video for LOTS of cash to fund my shoe samples, I’ve also been helping out on Laura Imbruglia’s filmclip which is a Teen Wolf inspired masterpiece….

Fuck, that’s enough for now… see you round.

Listening to : Ghost (best band at Soundwave by far) and Flume and Cashmere Cat << highly recommended, have a listen. Next level tunes.

 

Go Eloise!

Our pal Eloise has had a write up today in the Design Files, which means (without exaggerating) something like 30,000 people will have heard about her new brand Rapp as of today!

We were very happy to have been able to stock her scarves in our pop up store over summer, but alas, the store is packed up again for the autumn months whilst we regroup and restock with killer goodies. Look out for another Dead & Buried pop up this winter somewhere… maybe even on ground level this time instead of hidden 3 floors up!!

If you want to buy her scarves (which you should) head to her shop here >> http://rrrapp.bigcartel.com/

3D printed records!

Slightly off topic, but fucking inspiring none the less…

http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Record/

one day I’ll be able to make shoes AND release my stoner rock albums on vinyl in the one object! haha…

 

Exie! She Won! The secret is out…

Ok, after a MASSIVE few months here at D&B I have finally put aside some time to get back to what we all love around here… long winded posts about shoe making!

I’ll start with the big news in case anyone missed it – I made the shoes for Christina Exie’s collection as a finalist in Project Runway Australia and last night she was declared the winner! (I’ll stop with the exclamation marks now as they’ll get tiresome) … she wins a buttload of stuff, cash, a car, fabric and also the oppurtunity to show a collection at Sydney Fashion Week early next year, so providing she is still in Australia and not whisked away to international stardom you should all keep an eye out for that.

http://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/tv-and-radio/luck-lies-and-late-nights-project-runway-winner-reveals-secrets-20121218-2bkct.html

So, as promised to a few people, here’s the lowdown on how / what Dani and I did during October when we kind of dropped completely off the radar for all friends and family. This will be a long one, so get comfy.

We met Christina in our studio earlier this year when she was looking for studio space, she is friends and has exhibited with Katia who has a spot in our room. None of the spaces we had available were the right size for what she wanted to do – which turns out was to create a collection of some sorts in the hope that she would get to exhibit it after Project Runway was over… as she was eliminated towards the end and only brought back in at the last moment as a wildcard entry.We kept in touch as she seemed to have a great eye for style (and she liked my scary black shoes) so we tossed around the idea of working together in the future…

… and then at the start of November she emailed me to ask if I was interested in making her some shoes to go with her collection, even though it was the end of the year. Thus began stage one.


We discussed ideas, she wanted elastic sided boots, and this was the closest design I had to what she wanted. Luckily, being a designer herself she appreciated that I had ideas of my own and she wasn’t asking me to just make a knock off of something she saw in a shop.


This is the old prototype that we looked at and decided to work from…


So I sewed up a quick black version, glued on a heel and then started with my Photoshop skillllzzz…


et voila! As requested, a “virtual” black boot, 40mm platform, 5 inch (125mm) heel for maximum runway model awesomeness, the inclusion of a nickel buckle as per her collection and a few ideas of how we could include the red and beige that featured in her clothes. I added in the chrome front piece as it seemed to need something to break up the big fat front section.

After we had agreed on a style, she had received word that she should be putting together a collection ‘just in case’ she was needed back on the show, and that’s when things got serious.
I got cracking on production of 10 PAIRS OF SHOES that were due in 3 to 4 weeks. Ouch. Oh, and we didn’t know what sizes to make them as she wasn’t at the stage of choosing models. Grrreeeat.

I made some calls and my best fashion pal Keita at Pronto Productions (who produced the runway shows for MSFW this year) let me know that most Melbourne models are an 8 or 9, so we made the executive decision to just make 8, 8.5 and 9s and hope that the models had squishable toes or thick socks……


stage one… make up a test pair.  12 October.
Realise your pattern is wrong, remake.
Repeat 5 times or more.
Vow to be more careful when designing patterns and less adventurous.
Ignore that and continue to make shoes that “look good” no matter how hard they are to sew together.


Good ol’ leather detail photos (its been a while!)


realising that zips, suede, full grain leather and linings are hard to join all in one place…


but we got there… hellllooooo black boot #1.


A quick mockup to send photos to Christina. Happy comments received, everyone is happy.
Little did i know what was in store for me over the next 3 weeks….


After getting to this stage, and making ANOTHER test pair to further resolve the pattern I had an inkling that sewing all of these myself was a bit of a recipe for disaster. I sew ok, but I’m slllloowwww, whereas Emma Greenwood is a sewing guru and loves a good challenge, so I proposed she sew them for me at a nice and rewarding hourly rate whilst I got to work on other things.


… stuff like this was doing my head in. Straps meeting zips, things turning inside out. Its a mind bender.


the chosen 3 sizes all taped up for making a full set of patterns. If i was passing the sewing on to Emma I had to do a good, clear job of all patterns, none of my usual “front bit” naming conventions and “this bit longer than the other side” random notes.


… being much smarter than me, Emma also dropped a casual “will you be cutting the leather out?” and I was all “yeah, no worries, I’ll do it tonight…”

…4 hours later I was done. Thats half a day cutting things. Jeezus.
As you can see I had to go for maximum hide yield rather than the preferred symmetry and ‘only the nice bits’ rule, hence some of these shoes being a bit old-person-wrinkly in parts.


all sewn up and delivered…


…and 3 test “first pullovers”. Happy days.


Look at that sewing! Fuck, she is good. 20 uppers sewn in one day, neat as a pin. Worth every dollar.


The uppers start to pile up. Each one of these shoes took a few hours to last, and then there was the matter of me only having ONE SET OF LASTS, so I could only make 3 pairs at a time, then I had to pull them off the lasts and start again.


… another lifesaver from Emma was the introduction of heat set toepuffs. Being a hack with no formal experience or training I just make things up and didnt really know how to get or use this stuff. She showed me how, it works perfectly and takes 30 seconds. Amazing.


Alas, by this stage my 3D printer had not yet arrived, so I had to make my platforms the old skool way.
Lots of measurements, MDF, cork and PVA = two master forms to make resin from.
Those compound curves are a BITCH to get to work, but it worked out in the end.


I love PVA. It’s so handy. Filling up gaps here…


so with a whole night’s work silicone moulding this is what I got.


… and once that pink thing is filled with Polyurethane, you get production ready bits!


Dani snuck a sneaky shot of me scowling at a shoe. All of the other photos I’m scowling even more and look like a right grumpy bastard, so this one will do.


Thanks to my wifey’s connections we got a stamp made up at the last minute of my logo.
Have I shown this off before? Dunno, if not, there it is. Courtesy of NICK LEWIS.

oh, and I have a website sort of up now too > http://www.stevenphillips.com.au/


Here’s my #1 girl working away at some stupid hour. By this stage I was a tired panicked mess, Dani stayed to help me through another 12 hour day.


… she wrapped platforms and got hiiiiiigh on glue.


heels starting to stack up on the shelf…


DIY cast resin taps for the bottom of the heels. This resulted in Dani getting a 2 week rash on her arms.
She is allergic to resin fumes. ooooops. :(


Stamped stuff… looking legit.


Hardcore resin supplies. Audrey and I lament ever getting in to resin casting.
We spend $200 a time at Barnes (casting supplies) and $300 a time at Leffler (leather) like it’s no big thing.
We have discussed opening a shop called “Leather ‘n Resin”.. it would indeed be lucrative, but mostly because the name rolls off the tongue so easily.


Outsoles pre-cut. I used Topy to make them as non-slip as possible. Leather is nice, but a bit scary when you’re walking down a gloss white runway on 5″ heels.


Making shoooooooeeeees…..


So many shoes.


Here’s a quick shot I took at midnight the day before the deadline day….


Resin workstation.


Finished models on the bench.


More to go yet… cork inserts for comfort.


more done…


Production line, the day of the deadline…


Faster! Faster!

So ONE NIGHT before the deadline (by then she knew she was back in the final 4) I was madly glueing and stamping the final shoes and had entered a total state of tired / wired delerium. I dropped them off at her house, she was just as tired and spaced out as me and we crossed our fingers that her clothes and my shoes would look good together… and nothing would break.


so at 9pm, the night before the show, here we are…. 20 pairs all ready to go.


I wanted to take more photos but honestly I was texting Christina at 10 min intervals with “almost, gimme a minute” then “yep, heading out the door” then “yep, ACTUALLY heading out the door now”…

Dani and I got to go to the filming of the Runway show which was pretty fun, but we were so tired and nervous that neither of us got to pay too much attention to the clothes, our eyes were on the shoes thinking “shoes please dont break, dont fall over girls” over and over again. The show was a success, and as we know now SHE WON THE DAMN SHOW.

Stupidly Dani and I went to the wrong venue and missed the after party (derrrrrrrrr) but all is well that ends well, and this has ended as well as it possibly could have.

So what’s next you ask? SLEEEEEP and LOTS OF IT.

Our pop up shop is still open, we’re selling stuff right up until xmas eve, so come on in and buy cool stuff.
It will make me happy.

January plans you ask?

Making lots of stuff with my new 3D printing NerdStation…

Crazy stuff like this 6″ heel. Fuck yes, that is cool.

and finally doing some more work on this bucket of bolts, that is now registered.

Plans are to lower it so it scrapes on the road, paint it matte charcoal grey instead of green and get some whitewall tyres…

kind of like this, cool huh?
oh, and get ready for Black Sabbath concert that I have tickets for. Yesssssssssss.

So, that completes another blog entry showing that I am a confusing mix of heavy metal bogan /redneck, and sexy shoe aficionado.

Keeps things interesting I guess….

Until next time – MERRY CHRISTMAS! THANKS FOR READING! COME TO OUR SHOP!!!

http://www.quickanddead.com/

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

 

REPOST #2 : Janina Alleyne

These aren’t my work, but got damn they’re nice…



With my 3D printer currently on a holiday at my cousin’s house (who I should mention STUDIED ROBOTICS at university, why I didnt consult him earlier I’ll never know) hopefully to return in actual working order once he irons out a few issues – I’m looking forward to later this year when instead of reading about cutting edge stuff like this whilst at my office job, I can actually be making it.

I do realise that the ‘entirely printed shoe’ thing is a bit unrealistic and fanciful, the idea of printing and replicating most of the parts of a shoe will mean cost effective outrageous stuff like this will be possible within a few years. Exciting!

Check out this link for more info here :

http://www.core77.com/blog/flotspotting/and_now_3d-printed_stilettos_exoskeleton_collection_by_janina_alleyne_22854.asp#more

and here :

http://www.coroflot.com/janinaalleyne/Exoskeleton-3D-printed-shoes

REPOST : William Banfield’s Micro Make

Hey gang, lots going on in our lives as usual – we’re trying to arrange moving house sometime soon so we can be closer to the CBD and spend less time on the train, but it’s not easy! The combination of needing to find time to actually LOOK at houses, and minimising all the junk we have accumulated at home = busy, busy, busy.

I thought instead of more rattling on about what we’ve been up to I’d share this little bit of awesome that I just saw on the internet today

http://www.notcot.com/archives/2012/07/william-banfields-micro-make.php

Dani and I have plans on paper to make a powder coating booth in the near future, and seeing simple things like this really inspires me. I have lots of ideas and theories about how design and manufacturing can survive in this modern world – and this concept of simple machines that perform tasks that were traditionally ‘industrial’ is right on the money, people need to be able to “make” what they dream up and not have the lack of factories and skill mean that great ideas just dissolve away.

Anyhoo, that’s enough semantics… enjoy the pictures! (i’ll post back about this if/when I ever build something similar myself)

ALL IMAGES FROM http://www.notcot.com

McQueen

Lots happening, pop up shop is being planned, we’re working too hard.
Will post back on the weekend with some images and stories.

When I’m grown up I want to design things like this (my my, how things have changed!)


McQueen 2012. Killing it.

Listening to : Lento

Awesome

Quick repost of some images from Fashionising.
The colourful details and little crafty bits are the sort of look we’re conjuring up for our pop up shop… so if you want to spend summer brightening people’s days, we’ll hook you up with some COLOUR.

The Golden Age!

Hey kids,
With my birthday celebrations and self-imposed deadlines using up ALL of my enthusiasm recently, there has been little work going on in the Shed of Excellence for week 5.

But as they say, every cloud has a silver lining – and a few days of non productivity turned out to be just what I needed.
It gave me time to head back in to the CBD and spend a few aimless hours wandering around the arcades and alleyways on the lookout for future shop locations, and…

I remembered as I walked past the GPO that I’d recently read the blog of a girly who has set up a shop hidden in it’s monstrous walls, so with a keen eye I climbed the stairwell to level 2 and a half and whammo, I was there… and what a find it was! The ‘girly’ is Karlee Slater, and her shop / blog / business is The Golden Age – Vintage Made to Measure clothing. You may have heard of her as she is starting to get write ups in the press and shopping guides etc.

The Golden Age
Level 2.5, The GPO Building,
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

The Golden Age offers women’s clothing, made to measure
from vintage patterns. Specialising in dresses, suits and coats
from the 1930′s -late 1950′s, The Golden Age can also copy
existing vintage items and always has a small, well edited
selection of vintage and deadstock items from the 20′s-60′s.

Anyhoot, long story short, she is wayyyy cool, she has a little seamstress studio set up in the GPO that she renovated herself (awesome) and she makes REAL clothes, from real nice fabrics, for really really nice girls (and guys?) … and I get pretty excited about other people ‘living the dream’ and not being afraid to bust balls, spend long hours and work, work, work to get the results.

I didnt take any photos as I’m not that sort of investigative blogger, but I can steal some from her site and advise any of you ladies that are out there and either thinking of what to get/wear/buy to a wedding, or are just looking to knock the (bobby) socks off the crowd at your next party to give her a holler, and get yourself something made that will fit well and make all the guys be all “damn, that is, um, pretty hot…”

Oh, and as the icing on the cake, we talked Cars, dresses, hammocks, hot rods and Black Sabbath all within one 10 min conversation with no awkwardness!
What a champ. Her hubby does auto upholstery, so if I find out his place of business I’ll talk that up too… leather + cars + vintage = right up my alley.

As for the shoemaking, here’s some in-the-making snapshots of Prototype #2.


A quick no-lining mockup to make sure my pattern is all good, and now it’s time to work out how exactly I’m going to achieve the weaved/textile sort of look I want for the coloured inlays. Youtube, here I come.


I’m thinking something like this, but woven / friendship band sort of idea?

Listening to : Soulja Boy – Speakers Going Hammer < oh, I know, it’s rubbish, but it’s sooo good.

I totally need to get me a Donk.
Yarraville wont know what hit it.

happy new yeeee-ar.

This year is our year kids, plans are in place and wheels are in motion to get this show off the ground, a store opened and some long-planned and well earned success (and money) coming our way for the first time in years.

Keep watching this space as we plan to step things up ten-fold and really make the most of 2011…

See you in our shop later this year for a beer a high five and hopefully a purchase of the latest and greatest in shoes, jewels and fashion that Melbourne town has to offer.

Thanks for tuning in, we appreciate your support and comments (i’m looking at you Claire) and we’re looking forward to a lot more pics, a lot more rambling on and whole lot more local shout-outs this year.

Steve + Dani


no reason for this photo other than the fact that i’m a little obsessed with it and finally get what the big deal is with all the Kate Moss worship. She is beguiling and intriguing, and just, well, nice to look at. yeah?

… and how good are yellow dresses? 10 out of 1o I say…

As a new years gift to y’all, here’s my most clicked links in my bookmarks folder.
Check ‘em, daily.

http://shoelust.tumblr.com

http://rawshoes.wordpress.com

Let’s get this year under way!

listening to : Tame Impala – Expectation (on rage right now, in all of its 360 camera view glory)